Simply the Best
The River Wild
Luxury wilderness rafting and gourmet cuisine
on Idaho's legendary "River of No Return"
(Simpy The Best, July/August 2003)
by Judy Alexandra DiEdwardo
The invitation couldn't have come at a better time. I longed for the reprieve from telephones, e-mails, and I-95. So I jumped at the chance to join a week-long luxury river rafting expedition on 80 miles of Idaho's legendary Salmon River, a one-way ticket through 2.2 million acres of pristine wilderness. I yearned for the river's powerful roar, the forest's earthy aroma and the transformative power and solitude of nature.
Longtime river veteran and nature enthusiast Steven Shepherd, owner of Salmon River Outfitters (SRO), understood. He created the deluxe river expedition company more than a decade ago to provide access to the natural beauty of this area while combining as much personal comfort as possible.
Once in Boise, I board one of Salmon Air's six-seater Cessnas for the spectacular hour-long flight north to the remote town of Salmon. I am already giddy with adventure as we bob in the undulating air currents that waft across the voluptuous Sawtooth Mountain. At 10,000 feet, we pass over frozen lakes and winding rivers and the most private part of Idaho. No roads. No people. Perfect.
WE'RE NOT IN KANSAS ANYMORE
At 8 a.m. the next morning I meet my six river guides and 15 fellow river mates who range in age from 13 to 75, plus noted Beulieu Vineyards winemaker Joel Aiken who is joined by his wife and two children. This is one of SRO's five wine tasting trips for the season and the Napa Valley icon has brought his top vintages, which will be sampled during each evening meal.
Introductions complete, we board a converted school buss for the two hour drive along the river's north bank to the rustic, yet modern Salmon River Lodge where we spend the night and enjoy a final hot shower. It is here where we receive in instructions on river etiquette, ecology, safety and comfort. Our sleek armada of four Avon oar boats is neatly packed with everything from a full kitchen to camping gear, which includes spacious nine-foot square two-man dome tents, oversized sleeping bags, air mattresses and duffel bags that SRO provides for each guest.
To ensure smooth sailing and ensure perfect fit for each time the rafts are loaded and unloaded, Shepard provides each guest with a very precise packing list and an official SRO duffel bag for all personal clothing and possessions several weeks deform the trip. Extraneous items are stowed separately and trucked to the take-out point in McCall.
The next morning, under a bright blue sky and light easterly wind, we don our blue and yellow life vests, climb inside the bobbing gray vessels, and push away from the river bank. Also in tow are four one- and two-man inflatable kayaks and an eight-man paddle boat for those who desire heightened adventure. The raucous laughter and nervous chatter cease as we are humbled by the immense and unexpected power of the frigid green water that swirls beneath us.
Even though it's summertime, the early morning sun can't climb over the steep walls of the jagged canyons fast enough to warm the chilly air. The fast approaching Killum Rapid initiates us with a spray of icy water. Although the excitement lasts for less than a minute, our adrenaline is still racing when we arrive at the next mogul of churning water before settling into longer stretches of panoramic flat water. The sun is warm and manages to absorb whatever water managed to sneak past my armor of outerwear. But I am no longer concerned about warmth. The majestic beauty of these ancient read and brown canyon walls and to the sheer solitude of river life - palpable to all five senses - rocket me beyond the realm of physical comfort. I can't imagine a total sensory experience more divine. And we've just begun.
The River of No Return
While Salmon white water has claimed its share of inattentive boatmen, it is actually quite tame, punctuated by just enough Level 3 and 4 rapids along the way to make it interesting. The South, Middle, and East forks each flow to the south and hang from their host like three wiry tendrils. The river's most daring tributary is the Middle Fork - its 100 mile of blistering white water isn't appropriate of neophytes. Instead, we will travel along the river's main waterway, which is more suitable for all levels of experience. It has its share of turbulent rapids as well as the long and lazy stretches of smooth water that make for great conversation and wildlife sightings of bighorn sheep, moose and bears.
The river, which is deeper than the Grand canyon by one fifth of a mile, was first encountered in 1804 by Lewis and Clark after having been home to the Nez Perce and Shoshone Indians for 8,000 years. It was the search for gold in the 19th century that first opened the Salmon River Canyon to settlement and the wooden boats that were capable of running its rapids. As miners proliferated, the need to transport equipment and men grew. Flat bottom boats were discovered. Powered by 28-foot oars, or sweeps, these 32-foot long vessels were navigated down the river. But the river's powerful current ensured that it would always be a one-way trip. Once the destination was reached, the boats were disassembled and the wood sold. The boatmen would return by foot or by horseback to Salmon, where they would build new boats and start the process all over - which is why it is referred to as the River of No Return.
However I have an alternate theory. The river has a cathartic quality. The sheer grandeur of this wilderness area is enough to change a person for life.
Almost 400 miles of this wild and scenic river bisects Idaho from east to west, emptying into the Snake River, which ribbons its way north up the state’s western edge. From There, it flows into the Columbia River and then on to the Pacific Ocean. Along its journey, it flows through the River of No Return Wilderness area, the largest regulated wilderness spot in the continental United States.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Off-river diversions over the next several days include a variety of challenging and easy hike up and around the canyon during lunch and evening stopovers to explore deserted homesteads, gold mines and Indian pictographs. Soaking in natural hot springs was indeed the most delightful surprise of the trip. After concluding our first 20-mile stretch down the river, we arrive at a sprawling blend of white sand beach and thick, dense woods just in time for dinner. Within 20 minutes, the rafts are systematically unpacked, tents are erected and the guides are busy preparing the evening meals, replete with hors d’oeuvres.
As for the food, you won’t find any Spaghetti-O cans on this trip. In fact, both Gourmet and Food & Wine magazines could not find enough superlatives to applaud Shephard's culinary excellence and creativity. Breakfasts are especially delightful and nothing like the grub we prepared during my Girl Scout days. Banana buttermilk pancakes, yogurt topped with dates and coconut, bacon, honeydew melon, and the best coffee this side if Costa Rica greeted us on the firs day, and each subsequent feast only got better.
We had our token meal of salmon (marinated in an herb mixture of vermouth, lemon juice and olive oil) preceded by an hors d’oeuvres spread of creamy spinach dip served on crisp chips, along with a selection of California wines. Years of experience have made Shephard's crew highly adept in the make-shift kitchen, especially with regard to campfire-warmed Dutch ovens, which are used for everything from Gruyeres soufflé to a decadent peach cobbler.
NATURE REIGN
Our next day’s float was lazy and allowed plenty of time to scan the dense forest above the canyon ridge for wildlife and enjoy a land excursion to the remains of a miners settlement. Protected under the National Register of Historic Places, these hand hewn log structures are where pioneer local Jim Moore sold supplies to gold prospectors in the 1900’s. Rumor has it that Moore’s savings. which he allegedly stashed in a jar, may still be buried there.
We resume our transit down the river, our heads filled with visions of bustling commerce that once thrived here. The air here is thick with the scent of pine emanating from the thick forest that blankets the ridges. This silence is punctuated only by the water, churned and dripping from the oars, and the sounds of birds passing lazily overhead.
EPILOGUE
Our last day on the river is bittersweet. The end of this glorious trip is a reality that none of us feels prepared to face.
“It happens all the time”, says Shephard of the phenomenon. “After a week of letting go of everything familiar, most people feel a little jolted when it’s time to go back home. But one thing is for sure. No one comes back quite same as when they left. Perhaps that’s why they call it the River of No Return.”
Indeed. Unloading the last of my belongings from our raft, I take a final look at our watery week-long host — her beautiful face splintered and gleaming with sunlight. I think of the early pioneers who tried to navigate her, the lives she had taken and give, and of the indelible nature of this rare and wonderful experience that I knew would be with me forever.
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